Everyone is looking for good ways to maximize their usable space. The idea of outdoor living is to increase your usable space by making the outdoors part of your daily life and this requires smooth transitions between the different zones, such as from the house to the decking, anf the decking to lawn for example. To achieve this, careful planning is needed. Who will be using the space, and how will they be using it?

Properties and their gardens around London are generally small in comparison to the rest of the country. This limits what you can do compared to houses in the countryside. Most London gardens, especially in terraced houses, would have 2 or maybe 3 zones, or spaces, often made smaller with the additions and kitchen extensions.

Garden Zone 1: Dining

The first zone, or area of your garden, is immediately outside the back doors. If you add 3-4 meters of Flooring, generally installed at the same level as the interior flooring, you have started on your inside/outside living journey. I mention 3-4 meters of Flooring as this permits a dining table and 4 chairs. When planning please remember the chairs do have to be backed up for people to sit at them. If you do not build out a flooring area at least 3-4 meters you are making a path.

Gallery of House to Zone 1 Transitions

Keeping these 2 spaces, the interior and the first garden area, at the same elevation makes it feel comfortable to move between the two spaces. These is especially true for young children, seniors, or those with disabilities. It may come as no surprise that we work with these groups of customers on a regular basis. One thing young families and people with disabilities have in common is that their gardens require careful planning. Making the transition from the inside to the outside as easy as possible, and keeping the elevation the same between the interior and the first area in the garden, encourages everyone to get outside. 

If the interior of the house is higher than the garden lawn area, which is often the case after a kitchen and dining room extention, then Decking makes the best option as opposed to paving. 

Although Natural Stone or Porcelain Paving is incredibly durable, it does require building up the ground level to the interior if you are trying to match the two flooring levels. In some cases this means adding significant amounts of crushed Gravel, or MOT, to ensure the paving does not shift or move and separate over time.

Garden Zone 2: Main garden area

The transition between are 1 and area 2 are where you add your elevation changes such as steps or Ramps. If adding Ramps add a Handrail. If the elevation change is 600mm or more you are required to add a Ballustrade. Getting this section right, including the transition, will assist in your resale value.

Gallery of Staircases and Steps (Zone 1 to 2 Transitions)

How you finish this area is hugely dependent on who is living in the house and using the space, however the best solution is to give this zone to nature in one way or another. A natural lawn and grass is what we always recommend, combined with flower beds and planting, is always ideal to break up the floored zone by the back of the house and the Retreat Zone at the back of the garden. We never recommend artificial turf. 

Natural grass is a lesson in perseverance, the rewards of hard work, keeping something living alive, understanding and learning about nature and eco-systems. Worms and snails and bees and bugs are required. Decomposition is required. If you do have children this is where they learn about how things grow and possibly about how to maintain a garden, and why it is important. There is no point having an electric car out front, recycling every week, and having artificial turf in your garden. The subbase for artificial turf changes the composition of the soil underneath it and also even leads to increased chance of flooding in the neighbors properties. Not to mention artificial turf will spend 10-20 years in a garden and then sits in a landfill for thousands of years once it smells so badly of urine it had to be thrown away, leaving the artificial turf problem for hundreds of future generations to resolve once it has passed its usefulness. We feel this is the wrong way to do gardens which is why after a few installs of the stuff years ago, we stopped recommending and installing it.

So yes, we prefer natural lawns. Flower beds are always good dotted around the property. This is also a good place to run a path to connect the first and third area. If doing this in a straight line it maximises the central space which is good for kids, you may as well run this along the side that doesn’t get much sun and give the sunny side of the garden to the flower beds.

This is probably the area you would probably want to have a bbq and/or a bench, so add a small space For this between the path and the fence.

If you don’t have kids using the garden, you can really make this connecting area more interesting and play with the visuals of your garden to make it appear larger, hiding the back area of the garden by using a winding path, taller trees and planting. 

Other options to separate usable spaces is using partitions such as Trellis Fencing, Arbors, raised Planter Beds, or Hedges. This greatly helps section off areas and provides privacy and reduces visibility. This is key depending on how you wish to use the Back Garden Area, or section 3.

Garden Zone 3: The Retreat area

Maximise your usable space by finishing the end of your garden. This is the area where you can create an office or workshop, a yoga retreat or workout space, a completely separate Dining and Entertaining area, or a games area. In an ideal work you combine two of these. This is certainly where people will go to take a private phone call so it should have some outdoor seating. This is the reading area, the glass of wine area, the private retreat. Your own interests and hobbies grow in this area.

The back of the garden often has completely different natural lighting than the walk out immediately behind your house meaning it is used in a different way because of the difference in daylight.

The main obstacle is often uneven, muddy or unusable ground level . To make it work long term, finish the walls (fencing) first, then add paving or decking depending on your desired elevation and finish. We always recommend Decking, Porcelain, or sealed Natural Stone for this area as it is easiest to clean. You won’t clean this area as frequently as the area immediately adjacent to the house. Composite Decking is by far the easiest material to clean. 

One of the most popular current trends it a combination Shed & Gazebo area. The best solution for bikes, lawn mowers, and all the little bits is off the ground storage for bikes, or in the small shed section, and then the Gazebo area which would have a covered roof would be the separate covered area for Dining or a Workout area.

Keeping the garden tidy

One of the most important parts of keeping your garden tidy is adopting a minimalist attitude and planning for storage. If you aren’t going to use something in the next 12 months for sure, give it away. Managing clutter will make your garden far easier to maintain and keep clean and tidy.

However, don’t leave the storage decisions to the very end once everything is finished as you will then be cutting into your perfect garden and you will also be doing so after your budget has run out. Plan your storage from the start.

One item to mention is that we often see the areas between the Shed and the Fence completely filled in. It should not be. It can be kept clear with weed control Membrane and Gravel. It doesn’t have to be a work of art, however the important thing is not to use this small narrow corridor as a storage area. This area is for air circulation around your shed. If you fill it up, you will remove the air circulation for both your Shed and your Fence and both will rot prematurely. Keep it clear. Use your local recycling centre to get rid of the excess garbage. We often find the Car Roof Rack, bicycles, unused timber offcuts, paving slabs, and sheet materials stored in this area. This is a terrible idea. Get rid of them or store them inside. By the time you try to use them they will be stained beyond repair anyways.

Looking for ideas? Try some of the links below:

Jacksons Fencing Bin Stores, Pergolas, and Retreats

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Repairing a damaged garden lawn sounds simple, however nature regularly introduces new obstacles to achieving the perfect lawn so it requires regular work.

You may notice it is extremely soggy after a rainfall, or extremely hard when there is no rain. Watering during dry periods will hide the issues for a while, but your lawn should be on a regular maintenance schedule just like any other living thing needs to be. Applying a 4 in 1 mixture to kill off moss and weeds every spring will help hold off some issues for awhile, however that is treating the symptoms versus dealing with the problems.

Not all issues are on the ground. Make sure you look up too as it may be a tree is above you. What type of tree it is makes a difference. Deciduous trees block sunlight and drink a lot of water as well as dropping their leaves in the autumn leading to thatch build up if not raked up. Coniferous trees drop their needles, which are acidic, and change the soil composition when the needles sit on the ground. Walk through a forest and take a good look at the big bare circle under a coniferous tree as almost nothing can grow in that acidic soil mixture caused by those needles. You will find it very difficult to grow grass anywhere under or near a coniferous tree and even if you cut down the tree you will need to gradually change the soil composition where the needles used to be. Get professionals in if this is the issue you are dealing with, both for the tree removal, and the lawn preparation.

Here is how I take care of my lawn. This short list of lawn care techniques were picked up over the 15 years I spent working on golf courses where the quality of our lawns was make or break for our business.

Scarify to remove debris from a lawn

This is the process of removing debris from a lawn. Leaves, dead grass clippings, and dead moss can build up on your lawn. This layer prevents the water and oxygen from getting through to the roots of your grass.

This can be done with a machine which has small thin blades which cut through the thatch, which is the debris build up, and ideally collects it. Your lawn will look awful immediately after a scarification, but it will come back much stronger in a couple weeks. Don’t do it the day before a garden party! You can buy these machines, search for a Lawn Scarifier with a collector bin. You can also hire more robust scarifiers.

This can also be done with a scarifier rake. The incisions won’t be as deep as a machine, however it is a more cost effective way to do it. I picked up a scarifier rake from my local garden centre for £40.00.

Time Required: 90-120 minutes for a lawn between 50-75 SqMs with a machine

Frequency: twice per year (spring and autumn)

Aerate to reduce soil compaction and improve oxygen to root systems

This is completely different from Scarifying. Unfortunately when you google lawn aeration you often get scarifiers as the search results and it is not the same thing. Aerating is the process of using small steel tines (10mm to 20mm steel tines) which punch holes into the lawn. This breaks up soil compaction, softening the lawn, and allows water and oxygen to easily flow through the lawn improving root systems and water drainage.

This is best done with a machine, which can be hired in. Purchasing lawn aerators is extremely expensive so unless you plan to use it every few weeks, which you should not do, hire one in. If using a machine you have the option of solid tines or hollow tines. If you are doing this manually your only option is solid tines.

Hollow tine aeration: There is no really good reason not to use hollow tines if hiring in a machine. Hollow tines actually remove small tubes of soil, or cores, which can then be rakes up. If using hollow tines I do recommend topdressing at the same time.

Solid tine aeration: This is, as it sounds, a row of solid spikes which you poke into the ground. You can hire a machine for this or there are manual systems such as spikes on shoes, rows of spikes attached to a long handle, and some more advanced hand held aerators. I personally stay away from the shoe-version, however note any aeration is better than no aeration.

There is one additional method of aeration which is ideal for rocky areas which I have not mentioned, this is hydro-aeration. This is the process of firing water jets into the soil to break up compaction. The advantage of hydro aeration is the extremely rapid recovery time of the grass, which is generally just a few days. It is not very popular as hiring in the equipment and operators is an expensive process and there are a limited number of companies which do this type of work, almost none which work regularly with residential customers.

Time Required: 8 Hours for 1 person for a lawn between 50-75 SqMs with a machine (half to aerate the lawn, half to clean up the area)

Frequency: once per year, in spring, is enough for a residential garden

Topdress to level your lawn and improve soil conditions

This is the process of adding a thin layer of sand and or a sand/loam mix over the surface of your lawn. This is the most effective way to kill moss. Other benefits of topdressing is that is helps level your lawn as the sand will naturally fill in small pockets which have been created over the years. It also helps break up clay.

I strongly recommend topdressing after aerating, this is how it is done at golf courses. Use horticultural sand and a soft rake or, use a firm smooth edge, like the flat back side of a lawnscaping rake. Just brush the mixture around the soil ensure you are applying it evenly. Once you are done spreading it as evenly as you can with the back of a rake, go over it again with a broom.

Do not apply more than 0.5 to 1m3 of top-dressing for every 100 square metres. The sand will disappear after two weeks time.

Time Required: 8 Hours for 2 people for a lawn between 50-75 SqMs (one person levelling the sand, one person moving the sand from curb side to the garden)

Frequency: once per year is generally sufficient

Overseed to repair patches and blend optimal lawn species in

This is the process of adding additional seed to your lawn.

If you use a lawn fertilizer, weed and moss killer treatment such as a 4 in 1, wait 4 weeks after applying that to overseed your lawn.

Cut your lawn to approximately 25mm. The temperature needs to be about 13 degrees celsius for overseeding to germinate, and will take 7-21 days in that temperature, to grow. Keep the seeds wet during this period, water in the morning and early afternoon.

Time Required: 2 Hours for a lawn between 50-75 SqMs

Frequency: once or twice per year

Garden Lawn Patch Repairs

For small bad patches of bare earth or rock hard sections that look like the surface of the moon, I recommend doing patch repairs. This is a good quick fix if most of the lawn is looking tip top.

Break up the lawn in the area, fully dig out any weeds or whatever it is which is growing in the area which is not grass. Often you will find one large weed has grown with wide leaves which have grown above the grass, killed the lawn in the surrounding area by stealing all the water and blocking the sunlight to the grass shoots. Dig the weed stems out fully, don’t just rip off the top (basically don’t be lazy).

Dig down to a depth of 30-40mm, remove the earth, there may be more weeds, rocks, toy cars, buried treasure, or large roots under the area you couldn’t see from the surface.

Most areas in the UK have fairly healthy soil conditions and a mix of 50% topsoil and 50% loam will be ideal. In some areas of heavy clay, such as where I live, I use 50% horticultural sand and 50% topsoil instead. Mix these in a small bucket with a hand rake. Once this is fully mixed, add in a suitable lawn seed into the mix for the sunlight conditions the area receives. Do these very gently, you do not want to break the seeds.

Now go around your garden and fill in all the potholes you created. Tamp down the areas gently. You want these potholes to be slightly proud of the ground around them as because you disturbed the ground it will compact back down again.

Water the patch daily, the best time is in the morning and the best way to do it is with a watering can or a very very light setting on a garden hose nozzle, you do not want to spray these areas with any pressure. Do not walk on the areas for 3-4 weeks. You should see the first shoots of grass in 7-14 days provided it is over 13 degrees celsius.

Horticultural Sand and Seeds, Scarifying Rakes, a 4 Prong Aerating Tool are all available from your local gardening centre. This work doesn’t need to be expensive.

In terms of what order to do the above,  If you apply a Spring 4 in 1 mixture of Fertilizer, Weed & Moss killer, you need to wait 4 weeks afterwards. Then Scarify, Aerate, Topdress then wait 2-3 weeks and overseed. Wait 3 weeks and from there onwards do Patch Repairs

It is very rewarding seeing the results, especially those first few shoots of grass. Remember to be patient and you won’t be damaging anything permanently, if if it doesn’t grow try to identify the reason why (sunlight, water, oxygen, ground temperature and soil composition are the usual reasons) you can do it all again.

Gardening requires patience, you will not change your lawn overnight and almost everything you do from the above list will take 2-3 weeks to see visible results.

Happy gardening folks, and remember if it all goes south in your garden and all the grass dies and you are down to bare earth, you don’t have to hire a turf cutter anymore as there is no turf to cut! You can just go straight to the rotivator phase of preparing the area for fresh lawn turf or seeding.

Please get in touch if you have any questions. Remember that not all of this advice will assist all gardens.

Looking for information on our Landscaping business, visit https://oilcanfinish.com

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